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Welcome to Matrix Precision Parts! We are still adding new products, so be sure to check back often! All of our products are made in the USA.

Thanks everyone for all the great reviews, we really appreciate it!

UPDATE 11/21/2016

Great idea from a customer for a temporary sear pin:

"I mentioned to you earlier about not being able to function check my finished pistol because I didn't want to insert the sear pin before anodizing the frame. Not exactly a genius idea, but I cut a piece of a round toothpick and sanded it down a tiny bit and used it as a temporary sear pin. I pushed the spring down and then pushed in the toothpick piece because I thought the wood would break if the spring was set after putting in the wooden pin."

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UPDATE 11/20/2016

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Just got a frame back from the Gem Anodizing. I wanted to try type 2 on a frame in it's 80% state because the cost is only $15, including bead blasting. My plan is to drill the holes, cut the rails, and then use masking tape to isolate just the rail cut, and apply Norrell's flat black to the rail cut only. From their website:

"Lubricity

Moly Resin™ contains molybdenum disulfide, which provides excellent anti-friction characteristics. Wear life is comparable to blued, parkerized and other common firearm finishes. Moly Resin™ is a phenolic Resin that when thermally cured, produces the most durable thermally cured painted surface of any products on the market."

Also:

"The optimal thickness of the coating will be between .0003″ and .0009″ unless a thicker coating is desired. The thin coating characteristics of less than one thousands of an inch allows easy re-assembly of precision fitted parts."

So, it should be a good material for the rails. I am hoping to fire several thousand rounds to see how the ano and the Norrell's holds up. I will post some pictures as soon as I get it done.

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UPDATE 11/10/2016

New Matrix sight pusher on sale until the end of the month.

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UPDATE 11/05/2016

A lot of the sights in our parts kits are Trijicon night sights. A customer of mine contacted Trijicon and found out that they will renew the sights for $57

"Good afternoon and thank you for your inquiry, we can service almost all our sights as long as our tritium lamps are installed in the sights and they will have an inspection completed before warranty status is made known and if it is deemed non-warranty/out of warranty the re-lamping is at a cost of $19 per lamp ($57 for a 3 dot system) and we must do this in the factory and will be redone like they were originally. As stated before we will do an internal inspection first to determine warranty vs. non-warranty and then if needed get approval/payment. We do not provide a return shipping label to get it here however we will take care of the shipping to get it back to you , and current turnaround time is roughly 4 weeks. We do EXPIDITE for LEO when supporting documentation is provided. To have this service done please submit a Return Authorization Request via the website link provided. https://www.trijicon.com/na_en/support/return_authorization.php https://www.trijicon.com/na_en/support/warranty.php terms to our warranty. Regards, -KH Trijicon Technical Support"

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UPDATE 10/19/2016

I have been getting a lot of questions about anodizing the 80% 229 frame I sell. A friend of mine just got back one that he had professionally done in type 3 anodize. It was first bead blasted, and then anodizer plugged the threaded grip screw holes. It came out beautifully, but expensive, a little over a hundred dollars, which seems way too high. So I am still looking for a better solution.

I am still learning about it, and will have more info soon.

What I know so far is: The mag release still fits after type 3, but the other holes are now of course too small.

Always use a new sear spring pin, if you took yours out for anodizing. A used sear spring pin will either be too loose, or in some cases it gets fatter from getting hit with a punch and is too fat to go back in the hole. I sell them for $2, so no reason to try and use a used one. Also, the install punch I provide in the install kit won't punch out the sear spring pin, it's too wide, you need a 2mm pin. We provide a new sear spring pin with each frame.

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UPDATE 10/06/2016

More inexpensive factory Sig mags for our 229 80%. These are used, government issue I believe: http://www.centerfiresystems.com/mag0253.aspx

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UPDATE 09/24/2016

If you live in a state that allows more than 10 rounds in a magazine, here are some inexpensive factory Sig mags for our 229 80%: https://www.cdnnsports.com/sig-sauer-p228-9mm-13rd-phosphate-oem-magazine.html

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UPDATE 09/24/2016 I have been working hard getting lots of frames and jigs done this week, also a new product coming out soon, a sight tool for Sigs and 1911s. Thought I would share some pictures of customers 229 builds they have sent in, with their comments.

UPDATE 09/25/2016

Type 3 anodized frame with green grips, nice contrast.

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UPDATE 09/24/2016

Below is one done by a real perfectionist, with excellent results.

"The slide and frame are Cerakoted with Graphite black, all the other components are coated in Armor black. I added an SRT kit and with a little modifying I was able to fit a P229-E2 grip onto the frame perfectly. "

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UPDATE 09/24/2016

The first type 3 anodized frame I have gotten a picture of, I like it a lot!.

"Bead blasted and .001 thick. I did have to go back through all of the smaller holes to get pins to fit. Put it together tonight. Rails still worked great. " (He mentioned that he cut his rails with about .005 slop side to side and up and down so he didn't have to re-cut them after anodize.)

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UPDATE 09/24/2016

Below is a type 2 anodized frame in navy blue, looks quite nice!.

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UPDATE 09/06/2016

Below is a very fine collection of five 1911 80%s built by Woody @ Wicked X Arms who also sells 1911 parts on his website. "Your jigs cut 15 and still going on the same cutters"

2011

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Tactical 6 Long Slide

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Commander Bobtail

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Tactical Machining 1911

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22 TCM

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UPDATE 09/06/2016

A great example of the 226 and 229 built on our 80% frame. Both frames duracoat.

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UPDATE 09/06/2016

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"I recievd my rail cutting and decking jig in only 4 days. Great shipping. I went to work on my 1911 builders stainless frame and it was a breeze decking it. On to the rail cutting jig. I had tried to do it by hand with the "other" (Stealth Arms) jig. It works great on softer aluminum, but the steel was extremely difficult. I only got 3/4 thru one side after several hours of hand cutting and the cutter dulled. I put it into the Matrix jig and it was smooth as butter. I used my drill and cut away. 15 minutes later I was done. Both rails perfect. A little filing and a lot of lapping compound and the slide and frame fit like one piece. No slop at all. Great product!"

UPDATE 09/03/2016

A friend told me he saw a youtube video featuring our 80% 229 frame, where the author stated that the frame was cast. Actually my frames are milled from solid 7075 T6 aluminum. In the picture below is the block I start out with, and then use 56 different cutting tools in two CNC machines to mill the frame.

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UPDATE 08/26/2016

Latest Rail Cutter Written Instructions- Ver13 (08/26/2016): CLICK HERE.

UPDATE 08/12/2016

Hello Matrix Precision, Wanted to write you guys to express my gratitude for your craftsmanship on the Sig Sauer p229. This was my first build project. Your cutting and drilling jigs made the job almost too easy. I had the frame and grips magpul FDE cerakoted, and added Siglite sights. Took it to the range today and ran about 100 rounds without a single issue. Again thank you for this project and I look forward/hope there will more in the future.

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UPDATE 07/27/2016

I received a nice email from a customer who purchased our Sig 80% and parts kit:

I had a great time building my Sig 228/229 handgun. I bought your 80% frame and refinished parts kit. I used your jig and even though I have a mill, it made for a rewarding weekend. I used Meprolight adjustable night sights, Hogue grips and added a short reset trigger mod. The frame is finished in Ceracoat. I also rounded the trigger guard as a personal preference. Special thanks to Mosin Virus for his videos on setting up and using the rail cutter. Your cutter works GREAT. The build cost was way less than a new SIG and the German slide is a tad better engineered than the US built (nothing against the US slides but the German is tighter tolerance) The finish on the refurbished parts kit is excellent. I am very pleased with the whole project and my friends can't believe how well it looks. I've built several AR platforms in .308 and 5.56 along with a 1911's. I have a new 1911 project that I'm going to try using your cutter.

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UPDATE 07/18/2016

THIS IS NOT OUR DECKING JIG! It is a copy.

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A picture of the difference between the normal mag and the wider E2 mag. The flair in the E2 makes it too wide for our 80% 229. Scroll down for magazine recommendations.

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UPDATE 06/24/2016

Credit Cards and Paper Trails.

Something I didn't know until recently is that if a business has a customer that uses a fraudulent credit card to make a purchase, said business gets screwed, (which happened recently to me) because the credit card companies don't cover the loss like they do for consumers. Nice. I pay them 3 percent to process the credit card sale, and if there is fraud I have to pay for that too! It got me thinking, how can I entice my customers to bypass the convenience of using these bleeping credit card companies? Well, people can pay with postal money orders and get the benefit of a zero paper trail. If you are concerned about privacy and future firearms legislation, this might be an attractive incentive. Here is the process: Send a postal money order for the 80% plus add the 8% sales tax only if you live in California. Don't put your name on the money order, you can put my name as the payee, David Anthony Machine. Send the money order to us, along with a label for shipping, which we will pay for, afterall we are saving the 3% credit card fee. We put the label you send us on the box along with the postage stamps, and send it off. We enter it into our accounting system as a cash sale, and we don't have to enter your shipping info into our software since we used your label. This is just like you walking into our store (if we had one) and plunking down cash, and walking out with your 80%. No paper trail, we store zero info on you.

Our mailing address is: Matrix, PO BOX 2726 Del Mar, CA 92014

UPDATE 06/21/2016

People ask me, what do you need to complete our P229 80% without a mill? To make it easy, I put together a package:

Rail Cutter (for P229 and 1911s)

Drill Jig

Set of drills

A rail file

One 229 80% frame

Here is the package that includes all of the above:

P229 Package- everything but a parts kit: CLICK HERE.

UPDATE 06/14/2016

A picture of a really nice build done by a customer using our P229 80% frame, jigs, and parts kit.

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UPDATE 06/13/2016

Another magazine option that I really like is to use P226 mags with an XGRIP. It's like having a P226 grip which fits my larger hands better. Cheaper than Dirt sells the XGRIP P228/P229/M11 for around $11

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UPDATE 06/12/2016

Magazines: The Mecgar mags, manufacturer part number MGP22810N seem to be high quality, fit well, and can be found for around $23 with shipping. They are available nickel or black with a different part number. They also come in 13, 15 and 18 rounds.

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UPDATE 06/07/2016

If using a mill to cut the Sig holes, it is much better to locate off of the floor where the locking insert sits. It should be .465 from the floor to the center of the hole.

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UPDATE 06/03/2016

Sig Rail Cutters back in stock this weekend! Sorry it took so long.

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UPDATE 06/03/2016

We have had a couple cases with 1911 frames where the bolt that holds the frame down contacts the threaded drive rod and strips the threads on the rod. Apparently some frames have a different magwell cutout than standard (or some bolts are long?). A quick check is- after installing the frame in the car and tightening down the bolt, make sure the threaded drive shaft turns by hand, if it's stuck, loosen the hold down bolt and see if it now turns. If you determine the bolt is contacting the threaded rod, add a washer under the bolt and re-check.

UPDATE 05/24/2016

Sig .40 caliber Slide on P229 Frame With P228 Parts Kit HTML5 Icon

Pretty sure all you need is old style P229 .40 cal mag(not E2), P229 .40/357 locking block, .40 cal slide, barrel, spring. HTML5 Icon

UPDATE 05/24/2016

P226 Slide on P229 Frame

When we built KTO Sig 80%s, we made either P226s or P229s. To use a 226 slide and barrel, drill the take down lever hole in the correct place, and use a P226 locking block. HTML5 Icon

Sig Tips work in progress- Ver1 (05/22/2016): CLICK HERE.

After drilling the trigger pin and take down pin holes, make sure both pins turn freely in the holes. These holes are loose on the pins in a new Sig. If these pins are tight, it makes the assembly of the locking block difficult, and operating the take down lever hard to turn.

The sear pin is intentionally loose. In a new Sig, it will fall out when the frame is horizontal.

When assembling, I like to install the trigger bar first. To more easily install and remove the trigger bar, (with the trigger pin removed), push the rear of the trigger bar in toward the center- near the hammer strut hole. There is more room there for maneuvering it into place or to remove it.

I find it better to remove and install the locking block with the hammer uncocked.

If the finished gun operates in double action only, or the decocker doesn't work, your hammer strut is in the hammer too far forward. Install it way to the back of the hammer.

UPDATE 05/10/2016 Our shipping times for the Sig jigs is running several days. HTML5 Icon

UPDATE 05/09/2016 The sear spring pin is a tricky one to install. It should be installed AFTER the rails are cut. Make sure you are tapping it in straight. We provide the tools pictured below in the Sig Rail Cutter or upgrade package.

Installation of sear spring pin: HTML5 Icon

The spacer is to keep the frame from bending while hammering, or pressing if you have a press.

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Make sure the pin is straight in both directions, perhaps enlist a person to sight the pin for you. Use the starter punch(below) as far as you can without hitting the frame.

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Be careful with the final punch(below), it is slightly larger than the pin and can gouge the side of the rail if you don't adjust for it with the punch.

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UPDATE 05/03/2016 UPDATE 05/05/2016 Calguns deleted the thread, no word as to why. Probably they felt we were advertising without being a vendor.

Below is a video we did a couple years ago that might be helpful for when people are finally able to start their 229 builds, once we are able to get the Matrix sig 80% frames for sale on our website. It shows the large amount of play that Sig builds into their slide fit. I am guessing it is for reliable function?

UPDATE 05/03/2016 UPDATE 05/03/2016 KT Ordinance Sig Frames will work in the Sig jigs we make, if you file the width on the rail section to spec at .800 for the rail cutter, and shim about .010 on the drill jig because the floor where the locking block sits is about .010 high on the KTO Sig, at least that is what our two frames measure.

UPDATE 04/18/2016 A customer made a really clever mod to the rail cutter for easy measuring of the cut progress:

"When I did my first build I found it very difficult to get accurate measurements with the digital caliper while making the rail cuts with the frame mounted to the jig... so before my second build I drilled & tapped 2 holes in each side of the jig, made up 2 flat brackets and mounted 2 digital calipers, one on each side with the depth tails toward the inside. So then you can wind the frame back between the calipers, push them both in and zero them on the uncut frame, then just push in both calipers after each cutting pass. With this method I am able to get very close to my final measurement thus minimizing the amount of work needed with the rail finishing file to achieve a perfect fit." HTML5 Icon

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We are really excited about the Sig project we are doing, we have been working on it for three years now, as time permitted, so it's very satisfying to see it finally coming together. It really has been the project we have looked forward to the most.

We will be offering a Sig rail cutter for people who don't have our 1911 rail cutter, and also a Sig/1911 combo rail cutter that will do both. To complete the Sig, you only need drill plates and a rail cutter. We hope to make some drill plates in the next couple weeks. The drill plates will be very high quality with all hardened bushings for a 9mm drill, a 4.5mm drill, and a 3/8 drill with a stop collar since the depth of the hammer strut hole has to be fairly exact, or you can end up drilling into the magwell.

UPDATE 04/14/2016 SIG upgrade rail cutter kit, upgrades the 1911 rail cutter to cut Sig rails: HTML5 Icon

Sig rail cutter, two inches longer than the 1911 rail cutter: HTML5 Icon

UPDATE 04/10/2016 We have some Sig Rail Cutters finished, will post some pictures here. We would also like to offer an upgrade kit for people who have our 1911 rail cutter for $95. Why so much? Well unfortunately you need a 2 inch longer slide, a different car, and a longer shaft to cut the Sig rails because they are so much longer than the 1911. Next is drilling plates, which require three plates because one of the compliance holes is vertical for the hammer strut. The other compliance holes are the take down lever and trigger pin, and of course the rails. We are considering doing a pre-order for the Sig Frames we are making, if anyone is interested, contact us for details.

An interesting note from a customer on how he uses the 1911 Rail Cutter:

"Gotta hand it to you guys... Genius design. Some things I've noticed that help me:

1. To center the frame I stick a piece of paper as a shim on one side and squeeze the frame towards it while maintaining downward pressure, then pull the paper out and tighten the frame down.

To center the blades I found that adjusting both forward so that the shaft of the knob measure .334 snug between the knob and the jig. I then turn the knobs the closest direction towards a 12,3,6, or 9 o clock position. For me it was always the 6 position.

I then do 19 passes and re-measure to make sure they cut evenly. I'll make any adjustments to one side only If need to even it it out. I continue additional passes while measuring between every pass.

My results came out with a square even cut on both sides.

I did three of them tonight, and will do another two this weekend."

Abe Agil

American Fighter Arms

UPDATE 04/01/2016 SIG parts kits are now available! Sig Precision Rail Cutter next week. HTML5 Icon

UPDATE 03/24/2016 We have shipped over 400 Precision Rail Cutters, with surprisingly few problems. However, we very recently had a customer with a jammed car in the slide from galling of the mating surfaces. We have now added the following to the beginning part of the instructions: "Do not use light oils like WD-40 that will dissolve the grease on the slide. Re-grease the slide on all car contact surfaces after every frame to prevent galling of the slide surfaces."

UPDATE 2 03/24/2016 Another observation, we cut a frame the other day, and being in a hurry didn't check the top of the car for stray chips. Well, after we cut the rails and removed the frame, there was a big chip underneath our nice 1911Builders frame, and was now embedded in the top of the car. Chips are several thousands thick, so you can imagine how off the rail cut was. So please, use good housekeeping and make sure the top of the car is impeccably clean and free of any chips before you bolt your frame down. Use a magnifier if you need to.

Rail Cutter Written Instructions- Ver10 (07/08/2016): CLICK HERE.

UPDATE 02/27/2016 A couple people have asked where the slide fitting diagram we made a while back was. Here it is: Slide fitting diagram.

UPDATE 02/15/2016 We decked a frame today to test out our improved decking jig. The new hardened inserts were unaffected by the filing with the exception of the ends of the rods which can be filed if you file them at a 45 degree angle, which you would not normally be doing anyway. The new fixture features:

Larger and longer case hardened inserts

Tapped holes in bottom of jig allow steel inserts to be removed and then replaced.

The knobs on the pins can be removed for easier clamping in vise.

A version is available with bushings for drilling holes.

UPDATE 02/15/2016. We weren't completely happy with our old decking jig, so we changed the type of steel inserts. We believe these will work better, though they cost more, they are much larger and of very high quality.

We are also making a version that has drill bushings in it. HTML5 Icon

UPDATE 02/03/2016 We have also been getting questions as to which frames will work in the Matrix Precision Rail Cutter. The version of the Rail Cutter we have been shipping since mid January works on all 1911 and 2011 frames, including the commander frames.

UPDATE 01/25/2016 We have been getting a lot of questions about the .118 cutters vs the .117. Well the back story is: We would normally ship .118 thick cutters with our rail cutter, which will cut .118 wide rail grooves. So about a week ago, we cut a frame with the new and very accurate .118 cutters. The frame and slide fit perfectly, no play and any directions and a slightly tight fit. But it got us thinking, what if the rails on the slide had been smaller, or if we had wanted to lap it to fit, .118 would have been too wide, so we decided to offer .117 wide cutters as an option.

UPDATE 01/22/2016 Since our carbide cutters are now precision ground to +-.0001, we are offering two sizes, .117 thick and .118 thick.

UPDATE 01/15/2016 We now have some drilling jigs for sale. These are easier to use than our older version. HTML5 Icon

UPDATE 01/14/2016 We are making drilling jigs finally, sorry for the delay. Hoping to get some up for sale this weekend.

UPDATE 01/07/2016 We learned something interesting from Mosin Virus about the Limited 10 frames. Apparently Limited 10 recommends cutting the rails slightly higher than a normal 1911, about .005 to .008 Here is the response Mosin received from Limited 10:

"2011 frames have a shorter deck height than a standard 1911. We try to keep ours at .445 to the middle of the slide stop hole, minus a few more since we relieve the top of the frame so most slides will fit with a few thousandths clearance. This is inline with every 2011 frame on the market (which measure about .340-.343 depending on brand//batch).

300-.320 is also a common depth for the feed ramp, depending on the builders philosophy. Many gunsmiths have the ramp sit on the frame and use it as an impact surface, or with a small clearance, and many just hog it out. .300 allows the builder to choose for a majority of barrels on the market."

So, for customers building a 2011 with our Rail Cutter, we will provide free shims, a .003 and a .005, just send us a stamped self addressed envelope and we will send them to you. These shims put the frame up higher in the jig, thus the rails will sit higher, with the option of .003, .005, or .008 higher as you so desire.

UPDATE 01/06/2016 Business has been brisk, and since this is a two person company, we are running out of inventory. More long hours ahead!

The new Precision Rail cutter has been doing well, we appreciate the reports from customers that have cut their rails with the tool. Be sure to apply cutting oil on each pass, it really makes a difference!

We had been grinding our carbide cutters for the Rail Cutter in house, but now we are sending them out to a grinding expert with many years of experience grinding carbide. This will make a big improvement on the accuracy and consistency of our rail cutters.

Be sure to download the latest written instructions for the rail cutter below, we updated it recently.

We are not using Paypal as a payment option at this time, sorry for the inconvenience.

Latest Rail Cutter Written Instructions- Ver13 (08/26/2016): CLICK HERE.

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Video from a customer who used the jig without the instructions, well done!

MosinVIrus has given us permission to use his video for the video instructions.

2011 Frame Cutting

New Products For December